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05-07-2007, 07:53 AM
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#1 | | | In Depth Medical Formulary BrokenWing Chronicles
In Depth Medical Formulary How to Fix a Broken Wing
If you find a bird with a broken wing, you might be able to help. A bird who has a broken wing will usually be grounded and will hold one wing lower than the other. If you can easily catch the bird, that in itself usually means the bird is injured. Read through the instructions below to get started.
Note: If you don't know what kind of bird you're dealing with, you might need to get help from a rehabilitator. Some large birds (hawks, owls, herons, etc.) can cause you injury. Pigeons and all other kinds of doves cannot cause injury to humans. You can pick up the bird and help without worrying about getting hurt or hurting the bird.
Step One: Bring the Bird to Safety Before doing any work, bring the bird to a safe, quiet place away from all other animals. If necessary, use a net to catch the bird, but be very careful not to cause further injury. A pigeon who is otherwise healthy but has a broken wing will try to run away from you. You’ll need to try to corner the bird so you can catch him. Confine the injured or sick pigeon in a small place (box, cage, pet carrier). Wait until you are inside a closed-off room before working on your bird.
Step Two: Examine the Bird
The fact that a bird isn’t flying doesn’t necessarily mean that the wing is broken. The bird may be sick or injured in some other way. A broken wing will hang differently from the other wing, lower or at an awkward angle. It may drag on the ground. If the wing was broken recently, it can usually be fixed. If the bird has some other problem, though, or is sick, you must get the bird to an avian vet immediately.
Before working on the wing, look for any open wounds. If you see any blood or sign of infection, you should get the bird to an avian vet immediately. If you are caring for the bird yourself, wash the wound (I use a heavily diluted iodine solution) and apply antibiotic. If the bird has an infection, it will need to be on antibiotics, so you will need the help of an avian vet.
Step Three: Immobilize the Broken Wing
If you are sure that you have an otherwise healthy bird with a broken wing and no infections or serious open wounds, you may proceed to secure the broken wing.
Part One: Gather the necessary equipment:
vet tape (gauze that sticks to itself)
scissors
Part Two: Tape the Wing
1. Cut about 10-12 inches (unstretched) of tape.
2. Using your hands, secure the broken wing against the body in its natural position.
3. Wrap the tape on the outside of the broken wing and around the body under the healthy wing. CAUTION: You must be sure that you are not obstructing breathing! Do not wrap too tightly. It helps if you can have someone else hold his feet back and then hold his good wing up.
4. Secure the tape to itself.
5. Watch the bird for several minutes. The bird might fall over and be awkward for the first day. His feet should be free to move around, but his broken wing needs to be immobile. He might use his other wing for balance – that’s fine. Be sure that his feet are behind the tape (on the tail side) and that they do not get caught in the tape. WARNING: If the bird is able to drink by himself, be SURE that his water dish is small and shallow so that he will not drown. The bird has limited mobility and can easily drown in his water dish unless you place the dish strategically and make sure it is shallow (not more than 1/3 inch deep).
Step Four: Hydrate the Bird
If the bird is injured (but not sick), be sure that he gets water immediately and try to get some food into him. Leave him some good seed and check frequently to make sure he's eating. If he's not, you'll need to hand feed him or get him to an avian vet immediately.
Note: Tubefeeding is for pigeons ONLY. For pigeons and doves, use baby bird formula, such as Kaytee Exact. It's safest to just put a swallow at a time into his beak if you're unfamiliar with tubefeeding. Use wet cat food for insect-eating birds.
In this case, we gave the bird
15 cc's of baby bird formula mixed with warm water,
1 drop of vitamin, and one drop of worm medicine.
Step Five: Check the BirdKeep the bird in a safe place and confined to a small area, preferably a bird cage. Check the bird frequently to make sure the tape is still secure and that he's eating and drinking. You will need leave the tape on for two to four weeks. Change it weekly or more often if it gets soiled.
Step Six: Let the Bird Fly AgainAfter the bird's wing is healed, you will need to put him in a bigger place and let him learn to fly again. If he can fly well, he can be released to the same place where you found him. If he cannot fly well, he should not be released. In the latter case, get the bird to a rehabilitator or anyone who is willing to care for him. Warning, The following pictures are Graphic in nature, they maybe disturbing to some.
These are actual photos of injuries and Diseases common in the Pigeon world. Scissor Beak Pigeon Scissor Beak Pigeon pictures from wildlife photos on webshots Pigeon Pox Pigeon Pox pictures from wildlife photos on webshots Pigeon-broken foot Pigeon-broken foot pictures from wildlife photos on webshots Broken Leg Broken Leg pictures from wildlife photos on webshots Please be kind to all animals, they are a gift to us, they are Precious and Innocent.
Please return to the Dove and Pigeons Forum here on ParrotChatter and read more of the BrokenWing Chronicles concerning the "Bird of Peace" better known as The Pigeon.
Coming soon; Indepth look at Diseases and Viruses within the Pigeon world. BrokenWing
Last edited by BrokenWing; 05-07-2007 at 08:57 AM.
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05-14-2007, 03:43 AM
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#2 | | | Antibiotic/antimicrobials Antibiotic/antimicrobials
Name: Amoxicillin Trihydrate (Amoxil, Amoxi-drops, many others.)
Description: Amoxicillin is a semisynthetic analog of penicillin with a broad range of bacterial activity against many gram + and gram - bacteria.
Usage: Amoxicillin can be used with any bacterial infection showing susceptibility to the drug.
Adverse reactions: None seen with any frequency.
Dosage: 25 - 50 mg/Bird divided daily or 1500 - 3000 mg/gallon of water for 10 - 14 days.
Comments: Amoxicillin is very effective, well absorbed, safe, and well tolerated in the pigeon.
Name: Cephalexin (Keflex. many others)
Description: Cephalexin is a member of the cephalosporin group of antibiotics and is effective against a broad range of gram + and gram - bacteria.
Usage: Bacterial infections shown to be susceptible to cephalexin.
Adverse reactions: None seen with any frequency.
Dosage: 25 - 50 mg/bird or 750 - 3000 mg/ gallon of water for 10 - 14 days.
Comments: Well tolerated by pigeons and readily accepted in the water. Reported as very affective against streptococcal infections.
Name: Chloramphenicol (Chloromycetin, many others)
Description: Chloramphenicol is a bacteriostatic antibiotic used against a broad range of gram + and gram - bacteria.
Usage: Bacterial infections shown to be susceptible to chloramphenicol.
Adverse reaction: None seen with any frequency.
Dosage: 30 - 50 mg/bird, 2 - 3 times/day intramuscularly. Ophthalmic ointment or drops are useful for conjunctivitis used two times daily.
Comments: This drug is broken down so quickly by crop flora, adequate blood levels are hard to attain orally.
Name: Doxycycline (Vibramycin)
Description: Doxycyline is a bacteriostatic antibiotic with a wide range of activity against gram + and gram - bacteria.
Usage. Doxycyline can be used in bacterial infections susceptible to the drug.
Adverse reactions: None reported as common.
Dosage: 10 - 50 mg/ bird once a day.
Comments: Preparations require individual bird dosing. Very effective against chlamydia. Remove calcium containing grit during use (oyster shell, health grit), as calcium will bind the drug and decrease absorption.
Name: Enrofloxacin (Baytril)
Description: Enrofloxacin is a synthetic chemotherapeutic agent from the quinolone class of drugs. It has antibactericidal activity against a broad spectrum of gram + and gram - bacteria. It is rapidly absorbed and penetrates all body tissues well.
Usage: Enrofloxacin can be used with any bacterial infection showing susceptibility to the drug.
Adverse reactions: Enrofloxacin causes increased mortality in the egg when the hen is treated during egg formation. It will cause cartilage abnormalities in growing squabs, especially during the 1st week to 10 days of age. This. however, is not always seen.
Dosage: 5 - 10 mg/bird divided daily for 7 - 14 days. 150 - 600 mg/gallon for 7 - 14 days.
Comments: Probably the best drug we have for the gram - infections of pigeons. It is the only drug shown to prevent recurrence of shedding in most cases of salmonella infection at 6 mg/pound for 10 days. We assume that this means the carrier state has been eliminated in these birds. The liquid water soluble form is not yet approved for use in the U.S. Because of the base used in the tablets, they are not soluble in water by any means.
Name: Erythromycin (Gallimycin)
Description: Erythromycin is in the macrolide family of antibiotics. It is bacteriostatic and is effective against gram + bacteria and mycoplasmas.
Usage: Any bacterial infection shown to susceptible to erythromycin.
Adverse reactions: None that are common.
Dosage: 50 mg/bird divided twice a day for 7 - 10 days. 1500 - 3000 mg/gallon for 7 10 days.
Comments: Erythromycin is broken down quickly by the crop flora and thus levels found on the water for flock treatment are probably not as effective as bolus doses to individual birds.
Name: Lincomycin (Lincocin)
Description: Lincomycin is in the macrolide family of antibiotics and is bacteriostatic against gram + bacteria and mycoplasmas.
Adverse reaction. None that are common.
Dosage: 50 mg/bird divided twice a day for 7 - 10 days. 1500 - 3000 mg/gallon for 7 10 days.
Comments: Lincomycin is broken down quickly by the crop flora and thus levels found in the water for flock treatment are probably not as effective as bolus doses to individual birds.
Name: Lincomucln/SPectlnomvcln (LS 50)
Description: Lincomycin/Spectinomycin is a combination macrolide/aminoglycoside antibiotic that is bacteriostatic against a broad range of gram + and gram - bacteria and mycoplasmas.
Usage: Used in a broad range of bacterial infections shown to be susceptible to lincomycin/ spectinomycin.
Adverse reactions: None that are common.
Dosage: 50 mg/bird (of lincomycin) daily for 7 - 10 days. 1500 - 3000 mg/gallon (of lincomycin) for 7 10 days.
Comments: Poor palatability for pigeons. The lincomycin is broken down quickly by crop flora, and thus levels in the water during flock treatment are not as effective as bolus doses. Spectinomycin is not absorbed from the gastrointestinal tract. This drug is widely overused and of questionable value in pigeon medicine.
Name: Nitrofurazone (Furacin, many others)
Description: Nitrofurazone is an antimicrobial shown to be effective against a wide range of gram + and gram - bacteria. it is also coccidiostatic.
Usage: Bacterial infections shown to be susceptible to nitrofurazone and coccidiosis.
Adverse reactions: Nitrofurazone is an intestinal irritant and causes a decrease in vigor when given to pigeons.
Dosage: 1 teaspoon/gallon of water soluble powder for 5 - 7 days.
Comments: This drug is highly overused in pigeons and is much less effective than other products. Probably has minimal application in pigeon medicine.
Name: Sodium Sulfachlorpyridazine (Vetisulid)
Description: Sodium sulfachlorpyridazine is an antibacterial agent that is bateriostatic against a wide range of gram + and gram - bacteria. It is also coccidiostatic.
Usage: Bacterial infections shown to be susceptible to sodium sulfachlorpyridazine and coccidiosis.
Adverse reactions: None that are common.
Usage: 1200 mg/gallon for 7 - 10 days. 2/3 tsp - 3/4 teaspoon of Vetisulid powder/gallon for 7 - 10 days.
Comments: Vetisulid is very effective in many cases of E. coli. It is also a coccidiostat, however, other drugs are more commonly used in coccidiosis.
Name: Spectinomysin (Spectoguard)
Description: Spectinomycin is a bacteriocidal antibiotic that is effective against a broad range of gram + and gram - bacteria.
Usage: Any bacterial infection shown to be susceptible to spectinomycin.
Adverse reactions: None that are common.
Dosage: 1000 mg/gallon for 7 - 10 days. 25 mg/bird , twice a day IM.
Comments: As an aminoglycoside spectinomycin is not absorbed from the intestinal tract. It has been used the some success with enteric infections, but is not effective against systemic infections.
Name: Sulfadiazine/trimethoprim (Ditrim)
Description: Ditrim is a synthetic antibacterial combination product that is bacteriostatic against a wide range of gram + and gram - bacteria.
Usage: Bacterial infections shown to be susceptible to sulfadiazine/trimethoprim.
Adverse reactions: None that are common.
Dosage: 30mg/bird once a day for 7 - 14 days.
Comments: Only available in pill and injectible form for individual bird dosing.
Name: Sulfamethoxazole/trimethoprim (Bactrim, many others)
Description: Sulfamethoxazole/trimethoprim is a synthetic antibacterial combination product that is bateriostatic against a broad range of gram + and gram - bacteria.
Usage: Bacterial infections shown to be susceptible to the drug.
Adverse reactions: None that are common.
Dosage: 30 mg/bird twice daily for 7 days. 1800-3600 mg/gallon for 7 days.
Comments: A good drug in many cases of gram negative bacterial infections. Some preparations dissolve poorly in water.
Name: Tetracyclines Chlortetracycline (Auereomycin) Oxytetracycline (Terramycin)
Description: The tetracyclines are bateriostatics that are effective against various gram + and gram - bacteria. Cross resistance is common.
Usage: The tetracyclines can be used in bacterial infections shown to be susceptible to them.
Adverse reactions: None that are common.
Dosage: 20 - 25 mg/bird three times daily. 600 - 1500 mg/gal[on for 7 14 days. 4 teaspoons/gallon for regular strength preparations and 2 teaspoons per gallon for concentrates.
Comments: Binds with calcium so consider pulling grit containing calcium (Oyster shell and health grit during use. Very effective in respiratory infections (ornithose complex) especially when combined with Tylan. Chlamydia is typically very susceptible to tetracycline drugs.
Name: Tylosin (Tylan, Tylocine)
Description: Tylosin is a macrolide antibiotic that is bacteriostatic against many gram + bacteria and mycoplasmas.
Usage: Bacterial infections shown to be susceptible to tylosin.
Adverse reactions: None that are common.
Dosage: 50 mg/bird divided daily. 1500 - 3000 mg/ gallon for 7 - 14 days.
Comments: Very effective against mycoplasma and against ornithose complex when combined with tetracyclines.
Continued
Last edited by BrokenWing; 05-14-2007 at 03:49 AM.
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05-14-2007, 03:45 AM
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#3 | | | Re: Antibiotic/antimicrobials Continues Name: Amprolium (Corid, Amprol)
Description: Amprolium is a chemical that is very similar to thiamine in structure. It is a Coccidiostats
coccidiostatic by substituting for thiamine during the coccidia life cycle.
Usage: As a coccidiostat.
Adverse reactions: None that are common.
Dosage: 1 teaspoon per gallon (20% powder) for 3 - 5 days. 6 - 12 ml/gallon (9% solution) for 3 - 5 days.
Comments: Amprolium is highly effective, can be mixed with other drugs, and doesn't seem to affect performance. It is considered by many to be the drug of choice for coccidiosis. Vitamins should not be used during treatment, but recommended by many after treatment.
Name: Sulfamethazine (Sulmet)
Description: Sulfamethazine is a sulfa drug that is coccidiostatic.
Usage: As a coccidiostat.
Adverse reactions: May decrease a birds vigor when used for the full course of treatment.
Dosage: 1 tablespoon per gallon for 3 - 5 days.
Comments: A popular coccidiostat but no better than amprolium in most cases. Birds typically become listless during treatment (full 5 days of treatment) and therefore it is not recommended for use during racing.
Antiprotozoals
Name:Carnidazol (Spartrix)
Description: Carnidazole is in the 5-nitro-imidazole family of compounds and has been shown to have significant antiprotozoal activity.
Usage: Trichomoniasis.
Adverse reactions: None reported with proper dosage.
Dosage: One 10 mg tablet per pigeon on an empty crop.
Comments: Convenient one day dosage, but recurrence is quicker than with water treatments. Only drug labeled for use in pigeons in the U.S.
Name: Dimetridazole (Emtryl)
Description: Dimetridazols is in the 5-nitro-imidazole family of compounds and has been shown to have significant antiprotozoal activity.
Usage: Trichomoniasis.
Adverse reactions: Central nervous symptoms with overdosage. Fatalities can occur.
Dosage: 1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon per gallon for 3 - 5 days (American product no longer available). 1/4 to 3/8 teaspoon per gallon for 3 - 5 days. (Canadian or Mexican product.)
Comments. Very good for flock treatment. Overdosage with the foreign product is common by individuals using the wrong dosage.
Name: Metronidazole (Flagyl)
Description: Metronidazole is in the 5-nitro-imidazole family of compounds and has been shown to have significant antiprotozoal activity.
Usage: Trichomoniasis.
Adverse reactions: Over dosage can result in central nervous system signs and death.
Dosage: 50 - 100 mg/bird daily for 4 - 6 days.
Comments: Not commonly used due to poor solubility in water for flock treatment.
Name: Ronidazol (Ridzol)
Description: Ronidazol is in the 5-nitro-imidazole family of compounds and has been shown to have significant ntiprotozoal activity.
Usage: Trichomoniasis.
Adverse reactions: None at the proper dosage.
Dosage: 1/2 - 3/4 teaspoon per gallon for 3 - 5 days. 400 mg/gallon for 3 - 5 days.
Comments: Reported far superior to any drug in the States. Less toxic and more effective. Approved for use only in Europe.
Antimalarials
Name: Primaquine (Aralen)
Description: Primiquine is an 8-aminoquinoline compound having antimalarial activity.
Usage: Haemaproteus.
Adverse reactions: None will the below dosage.
Dosage: 1 - 2 tablets per gallon for 10 - 21 days before the race season. Then 1 - 2 days weekly
Comments: Primiquine is available as Aralen which also contains chloroquine. When used at the above dosage, the drug will not cure but only suppress haemoproteus in the pigeon, thus alleviating symptoms
Name: Quinacrine HCL (Atabrine)
Description: Quinacrine is a bright yellow compound with antimalarial activity.
Usage: Haemoproteus.
Adverse reactions. None with proper dosage. Dosage: 1 1/2 - 3 tablets per gallon for in - 31 days before the race season. Then 1 - 2 days weekly during the race season.
Comments: Quinacrine will not cure haemoproreus, only suppress its numbers in the pigeon, thus alleviating symptoms. It is bitter and not well accepted by the birds.
Anthelmintics
Name: Fenbendazole (Panacur)
Description: Fenbendazole is a member of the benzamidizole class of anthelmintics and is effective against a large variety of intestinal nematodes.
Usage: Ascarids, Capillaria, Strongyles, and Tetrameres (stomach worms). Not effective against cestodes (tapeworms).
Adverse reactions: Can cause feather abnormalities at the higher dosage, especially in how weather when they are drinking a lot. It should not be used during the moult or with birds feeding youngsters.
Dosage: 5 mg/bird daily for three days.
Comments: Very effective, but not commonly used.
Name: Ivermectin (Ivomec, Eqvalen)
Description: Ivermectin is derived from the avermectins, a family of highly active, broad spectrum, antiparasitic agents.
Usage: Ascarids, Capillaria, Tetrameres, Strongyles, and other internal nematodes. Also used for lice.
Adverse reactions: None.
Dosage: 500 - 1000 UG (Micrograms), which works out to be .05 - .1 millimeters or cc's./bird for internal parasites. 1 1/2 - 6 cc per gallon of water for internal parasites. 1 1/2 - 3 cc per gallon of bath water for lice. For internal parasites the higher dosage is needed in many cases of ascarids and tetrameres.
Comments: This is a very effective and safe drug. Ivomec, the cattle preparation cannot be mixed well with water, thus birds must be individually dosed. Eqvalen, the horse product is water soluble and may be mixed with water. Wormer of choice for all worm's except tapeworms.
.Name: Levamisole (Tramisol, Rippercol)
Description: Levamisole is an anthelmintic used to treat susceptible nematodes.
Usage: Ascarids, Capillaria (poor)
Adverse reactions: Some birds will vomit the drug.
Dosage: 1500 mg/gallon for three days.
Comments: Effectiveness is highly variable, especially with Capillaria. This common wormer is probably highly overused and should be replaced with more effective drugs such as ivermectin and mebendazole.
Name: Mebenazole (Telmintic)
Description: Mebendazole is a member of the benzamidizole class of anthelmintics and is effective against a large variety of intestinal nematodes.
Usage: Ascarids, Capillaria, Strongyles, and Tetrameres (stomach worms). Not effective against cestodes (tapeworms).
Adverse reactions: Can cause feather abnormalities at higher doses and should not be used during the moult or with birds feeding youngsters.
Dosage: 2 1/2 mg/bird for 3 - 5 days. 1/4 - 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of Telmintic dog wormer for 3 - 5 days.
Comments: Very effective for a lot of parasites. With the advent of water soluble ivermectin (Eqvalen), this drug will probably be used less and less.
Name: Piperazine (many preparations)
Description: Piperazine is an anthelmintic used for ascarids.
Usage: Ascarids. Adverse reactions: None.
Dosage: 300 mg/gallon for 2 days. 16 mg/bird for 2 days.
Comments: Very common narrow spectrum athelmintic. It is not commonly used. Drug only sedates the worm and the bird must pass the worm before the drug is gone or it will remain in the pigeon.
Name: Praziquantal (Droncit)
Description: Praziquantal is a drug shown to have excellent antiparasitic activity against cestodes.
Usage: Cestodes (tapeworms). Adverse reactions: None.
Dosage: 5 - 12 1/2 mg/bird orally or subcutaneously once.
Comments: Most people give 1/4 of a cat sized Droncit tablet per bird. Drug of choice for tapeworms. Very safe and effective.
Miscellaneous
Name: Nystatin (many preparations)
Description: Nystatin is a poiyene antifungal antibiotic.
Usage: Crop candida (yeast) overgrowth.
Adverse reactions: None reported.
Usage: 100,000 units per bird (50,000 youngster) daily until 48 hours after symptoms are gone.
Comments: Very good product for candida overgrowth.
Name: Permethrin dust (Insectrin GP)
Description: Permethrin is a synthetic pyrethroid with good effectiveness against external parasites.
Usage: Lice, mites, and pigeon flies.
Adverse reactions: None.
Dosage: Thoroughly dust into the feathers.
Comments: Gives up to a two week residual and very effective. By far the best product for pigeon flies. Good to use before basketing for races in areas where pigeon flies are present. It is very important that you get birds posted and checked for the proper medication BEFORE you treat. Helpful Measurements and Equivalents:
The following table may be helpful in converting various measurements.
1 gram = 1000 milligrams
1 cubic centimeter (cc) = 1 milliliter
5 cc or ml = 1 teaspoon
15 cc or ml = 1 tablespoon
30 cc or mi = 1 ounce
1000 cc or ml = 1 liter
3 teaspoons = 1 tablespoon
2 tablespoons = 1 ounce
8 oz = 1 cup
2 cups = 1 pint
2 pints = 1 quart
4 quarts = 1 gallon
Last edited by BrokenWing; 05-14-2007 at 03:55 AM.
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05-14-2007, 05:13 AM
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#4 | | | Re: A Preventative Medication Program That Works A Preventative Medication Program That Works
by Silvio Mattacchione
Health or its absence is the key to all results, good or bad! Regardless of the quality of your pigeons, if you are unable to keep them healthy they are doomed to perennially poor results. I believe it is safe to say that the person who has pigeons of lesser quality but has learned to keep them close to the top of their health cycle will outperform a group of superior pigeons whose critical health is little understood and has, unfortunately, been allowed to lapse.
Though this definitely is true, most fanciers haven't a clue as to what does or does not constitute good health. Good health in a racing pigeon is a 365-day activity. The old adage is in fact true: "You only get out what you put in!"
Most fanciers get excited prior to racing old and young birds. Once this is over, the birds take a back seat until next spring. Ah, yes, there is always next year! Hope springs eternal… or does it?
Well, in fact it doesn't! Unless these fanciers have a massive overhaul of their attitudes, they do not have any chance at all of ever improving. Pigeon keeping (all bird keeping, no, the keeping of all living animals) is a hands-on activity. You learn by doing, first and foremost. You also learn by listening, by reading, and by observing; but I guarantee that you never learn by talking, and harping, and pontificating. You know the guys I mean! They let you know that they have forgotten more than you will ever know. Well, a sieve has really never been my idea of the perfect repository of the world's knowledge on racing pigeons! My partner, Jim McLean, always states that unfortunately, "You become what you are around." How can such a simple statement be so profound! Here is a very simple rule to live by: If you cannot say something good, bite your tongue and refrain from saying anything at all!
Our topsy-turvy world has always gotten things confused and it's no different in our own pigeon sport. We always assume that those who do the best also know the most and can teach the rest. This is rarely the case. In the real world, the great coach or teacher is usually the man or woman who could not physically achieve perfection, but who in turn strove to learn all they could so that they could pass it on to all those who did have the ability and could benefit from their own efforts.
In the past I have assisted many fanciers to achieve better results than had, for them, hitherto been the case. Very few ever acknowledge where the info originated, and like the sieve, they have a tendency to lose what it is that they are supposed to hold.
They Must Be Kept Clean
First and foremost your birds must be kept clean. Scrape the loft at least once per day and if you can, twice. The loft must be dry. It must be free of vermin, all vermin. If you can smell mouse, you have already lost! The loft should house less birds, never more. The loft should be adequately ventilated. The water should be changed ever day. Feed should never be present after the birds have eaten. Adequate quantities of minerals, grit, oyster shell, salt, etc. should always be present.
Stop Exchanging Birds
Health cannot be achieved if you are constantly exchanging pigeons with all and sundry. Once you have a colony of birds, work with them and avoid the temptation of always bringing in other birds. The constant exchange of birds is a sure-fire way to insure disaster. Remember that everyone thinks their birds and management are excellent, but the reality is that they have not got a clue. In most cases, the greater the pomposity, the less the ability. Actually, in most cases it's an inverse proportion!
Bio-security is a Must!
Keep visitors out of you lofts. Who knows where they have been and what they will expose your birds to? As simple as these concepts are, they are in fact the key to any bio-security system.
It really is hilarious to imagine that the average chicken farmer (either layer or grower) goes to a greater extent to protect his flock from contamination than most racing pigeon fanciers do!
Pretty easy concepts, don't you think? Keep them clean, keep them fed and watered, keep them free of contaminates, do not trade birds, keep your colony isolated as much as possible, keep visitors out of your lofts. You are 90% of the way to success.
Drug Versus Antibiotic
Oh, let's not forget that we should also understand the difference between a drug and an antibiotic. Yes, yes, I can already hear the smart remarks. Well, an antibiotic is by most considered a drug, but a drug is not necessarily an antibiotic! An antibiotic works by suppressing the immune system, a drug per se does not affect the immune system at all. So you see there is a real difference. There are hundreds of fanciers misusing antibiotics like Baytril. They attempt to use this 3rd generation antibiotic as a performance enhancer. That is, you use the product, it suppresses the immune system, then as the birds come off it there is a slingshot effect as the immune system seems to go beyond the norm, and bingo, super health. Or is it? No, actually a sure-fire ticket to disaster! Do not use these mega antibiotics unless you have done adequate testing with your avian vet! In most cases less extreme older antibiotics will more than serve your pigeons' health needs.
Keep Canker and Cocci Under Control
Generally speaking, you need to keep canker and cocci under control. You will find that by treating your birds every 6–8 weeks throughout the year (you need not worry if the parents are pumping youngsters as it will in no way harm them), neither of these two conditions will ever be of concern again. Ridzol will take care of the canker and Amperol will more than suffice for cocci. These two products can be safely used together. The dosage is 1/2 teaspoon of Ridzol plus 12.55 cc of Amperol per gallon of water. You would use these together for 3–5 days depending on the original count. Remember that both of these organisms are always present in the pigeon. The point is not to eradicate but only to keep at a manageable level that does not adversely effect performance. Remember neither of these drugs are antibiotics.
Internal and external parasites can easily be controlled with Ivomec. Three drops down the throat and no more problems with either.
Sixty days prior to races you can treat the entire race team with Amoxicillin capsules, dosage 5–8 500 mg capsules per gallon of water for a full ten days. The change in the birds is exceptional. This is an especially good idea if you are handling a large number of out-of-area birds for some race or another. Yes, this is the same antibiotic that your children often take.
If the need arises, Vetisulid can be used to treat for E. coli. The dosage is 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water for 3–5 days. 2/3–3/4 teaspoons for 7–10 days also eliminates cocci. Often an elevated E. coli count will certainly mean reduced performance from your birds. |
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05-25-2007, 06:28 AM
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#5 | | | Re: Going Light "Going Light" Information
Going light is just a symptom of starvation. The reasons for the bird not eating can be wide and varied- ranging from an injury resulting in infection, through to a hen bird sitting so closely on eggs she does not take care of herself properly. This is a common problem in poultry but rare in pigeons and doves as the cock bird usually takes over incubation duties during the day.
The most common cause of "going light" is a gut flora problem. The stomach and intestine walls are usually thickly lined with bacteria which is vital for the digestive processes. This lining provides a protective barrier against harmful bacteria, which the bird encounters on an every-day basis. Lets face it - we all know pigeons will pick among their own and other bird's feces while foraging, no matter how hygienic we are at keeping their living quarters clean!
If the barrier weakens then it is less effective and harmful bacteria can gain a hold on the stomach wall. Once the harmful bacteria has entered the system the bird starts to feel unwell and as a result loses its appetite - hence the emaciation.
This type of harmful bacteria is termed anaerobic. This means it does not need oxygen to survive. People usually opt for Baytril as a favorite antibiotic when their bird is unwell, however Baytril is more effective against aerobic bacteria caused by wounds and has much less power when dealing with anaerobic nasties
Treatment in these cases is usually a supha drug. I have found co-trimoxazole to be very effective. Co-trimoxazole is an international name and any qualified vet anywhere in the world will know what you are talking about if this name is mentioned. It is however sold under different brand names in different countries. Here it is called Septrim. In the States it is called Septra and in Israel it is called Zeprim.
With a strength of - 40mg trimethropim and 200 mg sulphamethoxazole per 5mls - which any vet will understand, the dose will be 0.1ml per 100gms bodyweight twice a day for 5 days. If they become really ill you can safely increase this to three times a day. However the drug is so good at hitting the right spot that an improvement is usually seen within 24 hours. It is a good lifesaver!
It must be kept in the fridge and if you use a sterilized syringe each time you measure out a dose, it can safely be kept much longer than the 10 days stated on the bottle. This is usually stated because it is authorized for use in humans- who will use a spoon out of the cutlery drawer, as well as animals in which case a busy veterinary practice may not always use sterile syringes to draw off amounts needed by clients.
If you have no previous history for the afflicted bird, or you suspect there may be an injury involved which you cannot find, it is safe to combine Baytril with Co-trimoxazole. Neither has any contradictory factor against the other. I use this combination often when I admit birds which look ill, because they can up tails and die on you very quickly and you may not have enough time to play about with the different drugs until you find the most effective one.
If the bird is a youngster it is wiser to use an Amoxicillin/Clavulanic acid combination-often marketed under the names Clavamox and Augmentin, instead of Baytril which is known to inhibit bone growth.
You MUST complete the course. If you don't, any bacteria still surviving are likely to fight back much stronger than before, and may even become immune to Co-trimoxazole and the last thing we want is for bacteria to be floating around the bird world which is immune to some of the strongest antibiotics we have. That would be disastrous.
On a final note- once we have cleared the infection- including any beneficial bacteria, the stomach and intestine walls are now bare and vulnerable to any nasties, which may choose to set up home on them. Remember - once the bird feels better it will go back to feeding - and foraging among the dirt again! A probiotic is recommended which will replace the beneficial gut bacteria, which was destroyed using the antibiotic. This applies to any antibiotic given to a bird, for whatever reason. Antibiotics are not discerning. Their job is to destroy bacteria and that is what they do. Ok - Baytril given for a wound may not be as effective against anaerobic gut bacteria but it can still weaken that vital lining on the walls!
There is no rule of thumb for dosage of a probiotic, but at least 24 hours should be left after the last dose of antibiotic before starting. Probiotics can be given either orally or in the drinking water. I usually give a dose 24 hours after the last dose of antibiotic, and repeat every 48 hours for a week. Hopefully, by then you have a healthy bird.
BrokenWing |
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05-25-2007, 06:34 AM
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#6 | | | Re: Canker This is a white cheesy substance that latches onto soft tissue inside the mouth, throat and crop and eventually chokes the bird to death.
It mainly affects wood or feral pigeons and collared doves. They catch it from infected water bowls or more likely from each other’s crops, because of the way the young are fed.
Always check a pigeon or dove’s beak and inside the mouth and throat on arrival as this is the most likely cause of pigeon problems.
If the bird’s breath smells offensive it probably has canker.
When you can see this fungus like growth inside the mouth or down the throat, if it smells nasty but isn’t too extensive and the bird is not gasping for breath,
it can be treated with Torgyl (Metronydazol) very successfully.
0.5 Torgyl for adult feral pigeon x5 days
0.6 Torgyl for adult wood pigeon x5 days
0.4 Torgyl for adult collared dove x5 days
If after 5 days cancer is still evident, continue for another 2 or 3 days.
Never try and flick the lumps off as it can cause severe bleeding, the pieces will eventually just drop off.
If on the other hand the bird is badly affected, he will be thin, gasping for breath with this white substance showing around his beak and oozing liquid, smelling very offensive.
There is very little one can do, and it is better to euthanase.
If the bird needs to be fed by tube be very careful not to knock the growths as profuse bleeding will occur.
If you cannot see any canker but the bird smells bad and liquid is coming from the beak, gently feel the crop and neck.
Often a large lump will be felt and this will be the canker deep inside. If the bird has a lot of seed stuck inside its mouth and it cannot swallow, it will need to be humanely euthanazed.
Owls and other birds of prey can also fall victim to canker after eating infected pigeons. They can also be treated with Torgyl.
Sour crop
Pigeons are prone to this.
The signs are a swollen and a “doughy “ feel to the crop and the bird will be lethargic.
Torgyl can also cure this (same doses as for canker) but if you have very young birds it is better to stew some pieces of apple soft enough to handle.
Cut it into small rectangles and push it gently down the bird’s throat making sure it goes well past the opening to the wind pipe and down into the crop.
Give a few pieces 2 or 3 times a day and this often will cure the problem.
You can in between times give them a few drops of warm water via a tube and then gently massage the crop,
being careful that no food or water comes back up the throat and not hard enough to rupture the crop.
A light diet should be given at this time, and if they are tiny and being fed KT exact make sure the mix is runnier than usual.
Enteritis
This is another problem which can be cured with Torgyl, it manifests itself in that the bird produces green droppings that smell bad.
Treatment :
0.5 Torgyl for adult feral pigeon x5 days
0.6 Torgyl for adult wood pigeon x5 days
0.4 Torgyl for adult collared dove x5 days
Broken legs
Providing they are mid shaft, they will mend easily in a few days, given the correct support.
For pigeons, wood pigeons, collared doves
Wooden lollipop sticks are very cheap and can be used straight or cut and made into an L shape by using sticking plaster wrapped around the cross over.
Measure the leg and cut the stick accordingly.
It is much easier to strap a bird’s leg if it has been anaesthetized. Use a small mask with tissue or swabs pushed in around the beak to prevent leakage.
Anaesthetic
Use Isofluorane, as low a dose as possible. If this is not possible it then becomes a two person job as the bird will have to be held very firmly.
Make sure the leg is clean and any blood or dirt has been wiped away and dried. If the bone is sticking out straighten the leg so the bone is in the correct position.
Put a little Intracite gel on the wound cover with gelnet and then wrap the whole leg with one layer of softban.
Place the splint on the outside of the leg; if it is the lower part of the leg a straight splint from ankle to knee will suffice, making sure the splint is longer than needed at the knee.
Secure the whole thing with a thin net bandage, making sure that the toes are free to move and can be checked for swelling or reflex.
The piece of splint sticking out at the back of the knee can have the bandage anchored around it, and you will be able to see if the splint is slipping.
Lastly wrap a piece of band aid around it for extra support and anchorage at the top. If it looks too heavy or clumsy, remove and try again.
If it is the thigh bone use an L shaped splint, the cross over being at the knee. Apply in the same way, ensuring it doesn’t poke into the birds body at the top by bandaging over the end.
Another way is to use the mesh Plaster of Paris bandage that one soaks in hot water.
This can be moulded over and around the leg, having first covered the leg in softban.
The back toe of the bird can be poked through the mesh and this proves useful when a bird has a break just above the foot.
Check the splint every day to make sure it isn’t too tight (swollen foot) or rubbing any other part of the body.
Antibiotics
If it was a compound break antibiotics should be given:
Adult Feral Pigeon and Collared Doves
0.1 Duphamox LA for 5 days
If the leg is very swollen and the bird is suffering from shock
0.2 Dexadresson can be given once with the first dose of antibiotics.
Wood Pigeons
0.2 Duphamox and 0.2 Dexadresson
The splint can be removed after 10 days and a supporting bandage applied.
If the bird appears to have no pain reflex when the toes are pinched, it is still worth splinting the leg as I have found the reflex returns after a few days.
Pigeons can get into all sorts of scrapes, but if the injuries do not ultimately affect their flying ability, they can recover well with a little care and attention.
Broken legs can be mended with a simple splint, from lollipop sticks to the more sophisticated honeycomb type plaster of paris bandage.
If the leg isn’t quite as straight as it once was, providing the bird can fly well it will manage; there are many one legged pigeons around to prove it.
Continued
Last edited by BrokenWing; 05-25-2007 at 06:44 AM.
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05-25-2007, 06:35 AM
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#7 | | | Re:Canker Continues Broken wing
Any bird with a broken wing needs to be assessed carefully.
Simple fractures
If it is a clean break mid shaft it may be possible to strap the wing to the body. It will need to be strapped for 2 weeks.
Use Micropore as it is low tack and if removed carefully there will be few feathers lost.
Compound fractures
These will need antibiotic cover. Use 0.1 Duphamox LA or 0.1 Baytril 2.5% for 5 days.
Small garden birds with broken legs can be splinted with drinking straws. Mid shaft breaks only.
If you cut a length of straw to fit the leg and slit the straw lengthways wrap it around the leg making sure the break is well supported.
Secure the straw with something sticky like micropore top and bottom.
Leave on for 5-7 days, remove carefully and hopefully the leg will be set. If not, splint it again for 5 days.
Owls and other birds of prey with broken wings need special attention.
If the wing mends badly and the bird cannot hunt efficiently they will starve.
If the break is mid shaft it can be mended but has to have an external fixing, so one can make sure the wings are the same length.
This involves anaesthetising the bird with Isofluorane and stitching a splint on top and underneath the wing, along the length of the broken bone.
The plungers of 2 or 5 ml syringes are excellent with a bit of altering.
Take two identical plungers and alter both by remove one lengthways ridge, the thumb plungers and the rubber bits on the other ends.
Heat a needle and push holes through the flat shafts, make three or four on both sides, making sure both match up.
If the ends of the cut syringe are sharp wrap them round with band aid or similar. Put these each side of the wing and stitch it through on either side of the broken bone.
X-ray the wing to make sure the bone is in line; if so leave on for at least 2 weeks.
Check daily for sore places or for slipping if the wing was swollen and this is now reduced.
Keep the bird in an enclosed cage for a day to check it is coping and then allow it into a large pen where it can perch and clean its feather properly.
If they are kept in small cages they spoil their tail and flight feathers and are unable to hunt proficiently when released.
Antibiotics
A/B will need to be given for 5 days, 0.1 Baytril 2.5% or 0.1 Duphamox LA.
If the break is on the joint or too near the body the bird will probably never fly again, so humanely destroying it is the kinder option.
Gun shot wounds
Air rifle and shotgun pellet wounds can be cleaned out and packed with a small piece of gauze soaked in Proflavine.
The dressing needs to be checked daily and changed every 2-3 days.
Antibiotics need to be given, to prevent infection, but the wound should heal from the inside out in time.
Eye injuries
Damaged eyes can be treated with Fucithalmic ointment twice daily.
Fishing line, garden thread etc.
Fishing line wrapped around the legs and toes can cause the limb to die and go black.
Remove the fishing line by unwinding it, if you cut it you may not get it all out. Dead toes can be snipped off with nail clippers.
Pigeons do not let their lifestyle be affected by the loss of a few toes.
Cat Victims
Borgal is a good A/B for treating cat victims, as it is thin enough to use a tiny needle, and sometimes only one dose is needed.
Air bubbles under skin
If a bird has air bubbles under the skin, deflate by using a sterile needle and squeezing the air out through it.
A/Bs need to be given for 3 days and a corticoid steroid with the first dose.
The bird will need to be checked twice a day as the bubble can re- occur quickly, causing a great deal of distress.
Wet breathing
Crows with “wet breathing” benefit from a course of A/B 0.2 Dupahamox LA X5 days, and 0.1 Ivomec given orally on a piece of food and another dose a fortnight later.
These birds often contract lung worm and Ivomec is excellent for clearing it.
Starlings that have “wet breathing” can be cured by giving them 0.05 Borgal for 3 days.
Herons
Herons need to be handled with care. Always keep a hold of their beak and feet, the former can be dangerous and the latter unpleasant.
Herons are sometimes subject to a gut imbalance which causes them to become thin and weak.
A good diet of dead day old chicks and clean water plus A/B for 7 days Duphamox LA and Torgyl for 5 days can usually put them right.
If they won’t eat, they can be force fed by cutting the chicks in half and pushing them gently down their throat, then smoothing the lump carefully down the length of neck until it disappears.
It takes two people and is best done by one person standing astride the bird, so holding the wings in place and having hands free to open the beak while the other person gives the food.
After feeding, hold the beak closed and the head up for a fe minutes after force feeding or the bird will regurgitate the food immediately.
Water birds
Botulism - Symptoms
Green faeces
Weak and unable to fly
Unable to balance and tip forward onto their beaks when attempting to walk.
They need rest, good food and plenty of fresh pond water to flush their system clear.
Treatment
Give Torgyl once a day for 5-7 days and Duphamox LA or Baytril 2.5% for 5 days.
If they won’t drink or feed themselves, for the first 24-48hrs tube feed them a rehydration fluid with added glucose.
Gulls
If they still won’t eat, liquidize fishy cat food plus water to make it fairly sloppy.
Give this by tube feeding 3 times a day, until they begin to feed themselves.
Ducks, swans and geese
Give soaked chick crumbs, liquidized and tube fed straight into their crop.
Safety
Some of the birds may seem somewhat daunting to deal with, but with a stout pair of gloves, protective goggles and someone to help you, all sorts of procedures can be carried out,
including weighing the patient so drugs can be calculated correctly.
Do remember to keep any bird away from your face.
Last edited by BrokenWing; 05-25-2007 at 06:45 AM.
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05-25-2007, 06:54 AM
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#8 | | | Re: In Depth Medical Formulary ENROFLOXACIN (Baytril) Dose - 10-20mgs per kilo - BID (twice daily)
7 - 21 days
Effective against small surface wounds containing aerobic bacteria,
oral E.coli and salmonella -(Paratyphoid)
It is ineffective against anaerobic bacteria and should not be used
for any gut bacterial problems or deep puncture wounds which involve
anaerobics.
Baytril is not a bacterial stat antibiotic -(killing bacteria
outright), rather it inhibits the uncurling of the bacterial DNA
gyrase which means the mature bacteria are unable to reproduce so
die of 'old age' without issue. Problems with effectiveness can
result if given concurrently with another drug which is a bacterial
stat.
TRIMETHOPRIM/SULPHONAMIDES (Septrin, Bactrim, Co-trim, Tribrissen,
Septra, Sulphatrim)
Dose - 50-100mgs per kilo. BID 7 days
Effective against most anaerobic bacteria and therefore suitable for
gut bacterial infections and coccdial overburdens. The very best of
this family of drugs is Trimethoprim Sulphamethoxazole- (Septrin)
which effects a cure in 99.9% of cases if caught early. Can be used
in conjunction with penicillins.
It is ineffective in the presence of necrotic tissue.
AMOXYCILLIN AND CLAVULANIC ACID (Synulox, Clavamox) Dose - up
to 50 mgs per kilo BID if injection or up to 125mgs per kilo TID
(three times daily) orally- up to 3 weeks. Dose and dosing interval
determined by infection site, severity and organism involved. Used
to treat severe or deep puncture wounds, and helps greatly in
preventing the spread of necrotic tissue. Is also effective against
gut E.coli.
It is not recommended that this drug be given orally in the case of
critically ill patients as absorption from the GI tract is
unreliable, however many people do not have access or knowledge to
give by injection so orally is the only option and better than
nothing.
This drug has a much broader spectrum than Baytril and therefore
will treat a much greater range of ailments. Can be used in
conjunction with Trim Sulphas. Refrigerate oral suspension and
discard after 10 days or if liquid becomes dark. Avoid concurrent
use with tetracycline, erythromycin and chloramphenicol.
METRONIDAZOLE (Flagyl, Torgyl, Stormogyl) 20-50 mgs per kilo BID or
40-100mgs per kilo OID (Once daily)- 14 days.
In very rare cases, liver damage can be caused by prolonged use over
14 days - but it is very rare and one must balance the risks.
If maintained for 14 days or more it is highly effective against a
severe infection of trichomonas gallinae and in preventing an inside
recurrence- (not reinfection from an outside source, ie another
bird).
Used for anaerobic, (flushing deep wounds), and protozoal
infections. Can be given concurrently with Amoxy and Trim Sulphas.
DEXAMETHASONE (Duphacort Q, Colvasone, Dexadreson, Dexafort)
0.3-1mg per kilo OID or BID or q (every) 48hrs until not needed. Use
higher doses for shock and trauma.
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