The Kakariki is a delight in anyones collection as they are always friendly and confiding towards humans and with their mobility, are always the centre of attention for visitors.Because of their mobility, they should never be kept in a small aviary as a minimum, the aviary should measure 3.6 metres long x 0.9 metres wide x 1.8 metres high. Wooden construction is satisfactory as they are not great wood chewers however, as they like foraging on the ground, they should either have a natural floor (either earth or sand) or if concrete, a regular supply of freshly dug earth should be given to them.
Pairs should be kept in individual flights for breeding purposes as the cocks will go for each other and they can kill.
A safety door to your Kakariki flights is also a good idea - because of their curiousity, speed and lack of fear of man, they can easily slip between you and that slightly open door to freedom.
In captivity, the Kakariki is a short lived bird compared to other species of parrot - some will last only 5 years.
Despite their love of foraging on the ground, the Kakariki is remarkably resistant to intestinal worms but one should not be complacent about this dose them whenever the rest of your collection is done.
The only real problem to be aware of with the Kakariki, is the dreaded scaly-face mite which simply loves this bird. It can be treated effectively with most sheep drenches or Dettol.
FEEDING IN CAPTIVITY
The Kakariki is an easy parrot to cater for as far as food is concerned. They like a mixed seed diet but go easy on the sunflower as, like many other species, they can pig out on it and become too fat.
Always provide them an ample supply of green food together with fruit such as apple, berries, pears and grapes and as mentioned earlier, earth should be available for them to forage in.
The depth of the seed container must be such that seed doesn't spill over the sides - Kakariki's love to play at "dogging" their food and if the wrong shaped container is used, all of the contents will be on the floor in no time.
Kakariki's also enjoy mealworms, soaked seed and other soft food which should be made available to them especially during breeding season.
BREEDING IN CAPTIVITY
The Kakariki is one of the easiest parrots to breed in captivity.
By way of example, in 1958 a census was taken which revealed that 103 Red Crowns were kept in captivity.
Only 6 years later, the number had risen to 2500 - the majority from breeding and not from newly acquired wild specimens.
Both Yellows and Reds will breed at less than one year of age if allowed to although this is not a good idea.
They will breed in almost any type of box but the recommended dimensions are 250mm x 250mm base by 300mm high.
The hen will show interest in the box probably before you have had a chance to leave the aviary and a clutch often results within a fortnight.
Clutches vary in size from 5-9 eggs and it is not uncommon for 6+ chicks to be reared so you must ensure that the supply of soft food is kept up. The chicks also grow rapidly and if there is a shortage of food, the youngest suffer, usually terminally.
The eggs usually hatch after 20 days of incubation with the young leaving the nest at around 35-40 days.
Both parents feed the young however, care must be taken with the young cocks and if the adult male gets too aggressive, remove him and let the hen finish off the feeding routine.
Both species will double brood and sometimes triple brood if allowed to.
The two species will hybridize, but being a purist, I deplore such deliberate breeding as it is doing nothing but satisfy someone's distorted ego to see what they will get, and do absolutely nothing for the species.
To my way of thinking, hybridizing is a last resort to ensure that a species is not lost - subsequent cross breeding to get back to pure takes many generations. In mathematical terms:
first breeding (pure of I x pure of other) = young 50% pure second breeding (young from (a) back to a pure) = young 75% pure third breeding (young from ~b) back to a pure) = young 88% pure fourth breeding (young from (c) back to a pure) = young 94% pure fifth breeding (young from (d) back to a pure) = young 97% probably close enough to pure.COLOUR MUTATIONS As opposed to my views on hybridization, breeding colour mutations is a completely different scenario as long as the birds are genetically pure for the base bird and not hybridized to get the new colour from one species to another.
Colour breeding has been a part of parrot breeding ever since the first mutation was observed.
I know of no colour mutations in New Zealand of either the Red or Yellow Crowned Kakariki, however, overseas four are recorded - 3 of the Red and one of the Yellow.
They include:
. Cinnamon and Lutino Red Crowned
- both sex-linked and probably allelemorphs
. Pied Red Crowned - reported to be autosomal dominant
. Pied Yellow Crowned - reported to be autosomal recessive
CONCLUSION
The Kakariki is one parrot that most New Zealanders experience and seldom do you hear of anyone saying they do not like having them in their collections.
They are often called the "gems" of a collection.
As they breed freely, their survivability is guaranteed. Several releases of captive bred birds into the wild have occurred successfully - on Tiri Tiri and Cuvier Islands in the Hauraki Gulf and in the Waitakere Ranges west of Auckland and in the Wairarapa.
If you are one of the few breeders who have not kept and bred the humble Kakariki, give them a go - you will not be disappointed.
REEFERENCES
" Atlas of Parrots" Dr David Alderton : TFH "Parrots of the World" Joseph M. Forshaw : Landsdowne "Australian Parrots" Ian Harman : Inkata Press "Parrots : Their Care & Breeding" Rosemary Low : TM " Complete Book of NZ Birds" Readers Digest : Readers Digest
http://www.parrot.co.nz/Parrot.NZ.ar...-kakariki.html
Red Crown
http://www.nzbirds.com/birds/kakarikired.html
Yellow Crown
