Folks,
Sorry that I caused such upsets here by tagging onto this old thread.
This is a sad enough world with conflicts bombs and death from intolerance of man towards man. We all do not have that much time left anyway from the way we consume our planet resources and fossil fuels.
I rather see things we have in common such as our love for our birds rather than how you care to keep flighted or not flighted. That they have a good quality of life is enough.
Birds are lost, clipped or flighted, through lack of knowledge. And I like to contribute what I know to minimise that and to give them and their caregivers a better time together safely.
I had been so strongly pressured to clip at the beginning that I now will never want to add further pressure onto anyone one way or the other.
Ultimate choice must be left to the individual, as only he or she know the circumstances. Let us all enjoy without pressuring others who chose differently.
When I started in 2002, I was desperately searching for information as to how to keep a flighted parrot. Those information did not exist then.
I hope the accounts of my life with Tinkerbell my CAG and later with Yingshiong my shama will be of help to those who might have thought of trying the same.
After all, kids will grow up or chew up all those poisonous plants in the house and lids found to cover all those boiling pots of water.
The circumstances which compelled you to clip the wings might have changed and you can reconsider again.
:-) or perhaps the material I provide might give you confidence to try what you do not wish to try earlier.
If you chose to keep your birds flighted, it is of paramount importance that you must train together and develop that bond even further.
Part 2 Tinkerbell Legacy was written as a guide as how you live and train with your flighted bird. That will contain much more details than what can be written in this reply.
Do not even try to look for shortcuts. Stop and think at every step.
YOU NEED TO live with the flighted bird to bond with them, to read not only their moods, and even more important, the nuances of their moods.
You cannot develop such bonds and understanding if the bird lives in a cage or in an aviary.
You must have a good sense of humour to live with a flighted bird. You cannot be a control freak and you must be prepared to give more than you take.
You cannot even begin to understand them if you take the approach you are the Master giving commands and they as pets who must obey.
They are not pets, they must be your friends and companions and as your equal.
Your bird must fly to you whenever you call them. Part 2 will take you through that process from the point you started formal clicker training.
Your bird must also fly to you sight unseen. In what I term as 'hide and seek' recall, he/she must fly to you from different room as you call for him/her. This is no guarantee that bird be with you safely outdoors.
No one can ever give you such a guarantee. The safest way for your bird to be with you outdoors will be in a harness you make for the bird to the design of Tinkerbell harness. Tinkerbell harness weigh 3 grams for Tinkerbell. The harness I made for Yingshiong (30 gram weight) nudge the jewelry scale at 0.6 grams.
This is only the beginning. The details are in Tinkerbell Legacy and the blog of how shama Yingshiong lived with me and how we trained together.
Svolk,
Flying down is very difficult.
For those birds got up a tree, perhaps this posting I did earlier elsewhere might be of some help.
And the following letter might be interesting to you too.
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Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2007
In this bundled series of letters, I was talking about what I termed as the gyrodrop. That was in the context of the mechanics of bird flights as to how they fly downwards. You can gauge how much I know about the difficulties of birds flying downwards.
Feel free to dispute with me on what I wrote, if you have some such experiences.
About the end of that article, I suggest the best flight angle for you to
induce your clipped or unclipped bird to fly back to you. You never know
one day you might need to use this.
An article from Part 1 Tinkerbell Early Period
http://www.geocities.com/shanlung9/w6gyrodrop.html
And if above works for you and you are grateful,
send a nice cheque to Gerald Durrells Wildlife Trust
http://www.durrellwildlife.org/
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March 30th, 2007
8:56 pm More thoughts on wing clipping
Dave is an old friend from another forum. His CAG Smokey is flying about inside his house after he saw Tink page and started corresponding with me.
Dave wrote:
Proper wing clipping will allow a bird horozontal movement and the ability to glide downward to a floor. The ideal wing clip is one that allows a bird to fly about 8 ft before gliding down.
Hi Dave,
In an ideal world, what you say above may be right.
The other extreme will be extremely severe clipping of wings. When I was in Riyadh and in a parrot shop, this grey jumped off the top of cage about 5 feet from ground. The sound of him hitting down, the spray of blood around him, and the screaming of that poor guy hurt me crazy. I do not wish ever to have another keel bone broken even if not in front of me.
People clipped for a few key reasons.
1. They had been conditioned to that because of what they read or were told. This seemed to be peculiarly American. Tinkerbell wings were so nearly clipped by me at the beginning as the books I read all recommended that (all American books) as well as forums in 2002 when I first had Tinkerbell. I was lucky enough to bought a British parrot mag to give me second thoughts.
2. The sight of initial flights, the crashing into walls was extremely frightening and I thought my precious Tink was crazy in trying to fly through walls while I stumbled about chasing her with a pillow to cushion her falls after hitting the wall. Once again, I so nearly reached for that scissors and Tink the flying grey of Taiwan so nearly did not exist. But that british mag persuaded me to let that continue for a few more days.
She then found her flying skills to turn, slow, hover and stopped banging into walls.
Folks, this episode is inevitable. Your birds may be natural fliers, but even so, they MUST develope their muscles , flying skills and sense of balance. But at this early stage, their speed will be very slow(even if it appeared fast to you) and chances of harm to them will be there, but not much.
You can minimise this by letting them fledge in a small room, with curtains or rope nets around the walls for them to fly to and cling too. Or you can run around like me with a cushion.
If you see a human toddler trying to walk and falling down, will you have fear for his/her safety and not ever let him discover balance and walk? Will you have him/her crawl for the rest of their life because you are afraid to see them fall?
This is same as your choice for your bird.
3 By clipping wings and thinking thus the clipped bird will never fly away. I need not repeat my earlier postings of clipped birds that flown away.
In what Dave said , that is true in an ideal world. Unfortunately, we live in the real world.
But most people then went on to extrapolate that then, their bird will never be able to fly away. That is where I draw that line.
So after you got that 'perfect clip' and your parrot then fly about 8 feet and not gaining height. But again, have that clip been tested under worse case condition? Such as a sudden blast of air horn , or a strange hat thrust in front to see if that parrot cannot gain height in a spook situation?
Can you bear to do a sudden spook, or allow others to do that to your parrot? To see if that clipped wings hold good in spook conditions? And with Murphy at your elbows, how about throwing in that gust of wind at the same time?
Can you ever guarantee such conditions will never ever occur to you?
People had thought so. Their parrot paid heavier price than they did.
Your choice again to see if you can beat those odds.
Shanlung
http://www.geocities.com/shanlung9/